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A village lane curving between stone cottages, clipped yews and a red phone box

Steve Daniels, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Barnsley

An estate village of one street on the Cirencester to Bibury road, with Rosemary Verey's garden behind the wall of Barnsley House, a Norman church and a pub with rooms. Four miles from Cirencester, and quiet.

Nearest station
Kemble, 9 miles, then the 882 bus to Cirencester and the 855 on to Barnsley
Parking
No public car park; the Village Pub has a free car park behind it for its customers, and there is a little roadside space on the street
Best time
May and June for Barnsley House's laburnum; a summer Saturday when Bibury fills
When it's busy
Rarely busy. The street carries the Cirencester to Bibury traffic, so the pavement is the place to walk
Toilets
None in the village; the nearest public toilets are in Cirencester (Forum car park) and Bibury (The Street)
Dogs
Welcome in the bar and garden of the Village Pub, not in its bedrooms

About Barnsley

Barnsley is a single street of stone cottages on the road between Cirencester and Bibury, 4 miles (7km) from the first and 3 miles from the second. Most of the traffic between the two passes straight through, which is the point: the church, the garden and the pub are a few steps apart, and nobody is queuing for any of them. It grew up as the estate village of Barnsley Park, and it looks it, with the same stone, the same roofs and dated cottages along the street.

What to see

Barnsley House is the reason most people have heard of the village. Brereton Bourchier built it in 1697, and from 1952 it was the home of David Verey, the architectural historian, and his wife Rosemary. In the garden behind its wall she made the laburnum walk, the knot garden and, in the early 1970s, the potager, a kitchen garden laid out in a pattern of brick paths. David Verey brought the little Tuscan temple from Fairford Park in the early 1960s. Rosemary Verey died in May 2001, and the house is now a hotel, THE PIG in the Cotswolds (opens in a new tab). The garden is listed Grade II* in its own right, and it is the hotel's garden, so a meal or a stay there is the usual way in: the hotel invites lunch guests as well as residents to wander the gardens, and gives a free Kitchen Garden tour every day at 11am that anyone can join (let the hotel know on 0345 225 9494 first). It publishes no separate garden-day or garden-only ticket.

St Mary's, across the street, was a chapel of Bibury by 1151 and still has the corbel table of its Norman church, inside the south transept and under the eaves of the chancel. The chancel arch is thirteenth century on sloping Norman piers, the tower is of about 1500 with a top stage of about 1600, and the lancets are the work of James Park Harrison's restoration of 1843 to 1847. The Bourchiers of Barnsley House are on the walls and the floor. It is listed Grade II* (opens in a new tab), and the churchyard has its own listed stile and gate in the north-west corner.

A whitewashed church nave with dark timber roof trusses and a stained-glass east window
Inside St Mary's, Barnsley Photo: Asteuartw, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Barnsley Park, the big house north of the village, is Grade I: a baroque house with rainwater heads dated 1720 and 1721, built for Henry Perrot, who had married Bourchier's daughter, with a library by John Nash of about 1811. It is private, and so is its park, but you see the lodges and the wall from the Bibury road. The cottages on the street are the estate village: the Musgraves, who had the park from 1812, dated some of them 1811, 1817 and 1851. Sixty-two buildings and structures in the parish are listed.

A long row of stone estate cottages with dormer windows beside a village road
Cottages along the street in Barnsley Photo: David Howard, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

An afternoon in Barnsley

Barnsley is a long lunch and a short walk. Book a table at the Village Pub or at the hotel, then walk the street from the pub to the church, 200m or so, reading the dates on the cottages as you go. Go into St Mary's for the Norman corbels and the Bourchier monuments, and out through the stile in the churchyard wall. If you are eating at THE PIG, the garden comes with the meal; if not, the wall along the road is as close as you will get without asking.

A gabled stone manor house above a lawn and clipped hedges, sunshades on a terrace
Barnsley House Photo: don cload, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

With the rest of the afternoon, drive or take the bus the 3 miles to Bibury and see Arlington Row late in the afternoon, when the day visitors thin out, or go the other way into Cirencester for the Corinium Museum. Either way, Barnsley is the quiet end of the day.

Walks

We have no walk that starts in Barnsley. The nearest is Bibury and Ablington, a 5-mile (8.2km) loop over the wold and back along the Coln, which starts 3 miles up the road at Arlington Row. The old road from Barnsley to Ablington was diverted in 1794 to enlarge the park, and the lanes north of the village are quiet enough to walk, but they are lanes, not paths, so keep to the verges.

Food and drink

The Village Pub was the Greyhound. Its listing describes three cottages of the late seventeenth or early eighteenth century converted to an inn, and the Victoria County History has the Greyhound moving here from Greyhound Farm early in the twentieth century; Barnsley had an inn by 1657. It serves lunch every day and dinner from Monday to Saturday, with Thursday steak night, ales drawn from the barrel and six bedrooms under the roof, and it belongs to the same group as the hotel across the road. Dogs are welcome in the bar and the garden, though not in the bedrooms.

When to come

Late May and June, when the laburnum is out at Barnsley House, is the garden's moment, and the moment to book a table. Otherwise the village is the same in any month, which is to say quiet, and it is one of the places we send people on a summer Saturday when Bibury is at its worst; our guide to the Cotswolds without the crowds has the others. Come on a weekday or a Saturday if you want the bus: the 855 does not run on Sundays.

Last verified 1 November 2026 by our editors

  • A terrace of cream stone cottages with tall chimneys behind a low wall
  • A tall stone house with gate piers at the top of a gravel lane
  • A classical stone stable block with a white clock turret above a lawn
  • A row of stone cottages behind a low wall beside a village road
  • A stone cross with a poppy wreath set into a dry stone wall at a corner of the village street

Things to do in Barnsley

Where to stay in Barnsley

Where to eat and drink in Barnsley

Walks in and around Barnsley

Sights in and around Barnsley

History of Barnsley

Barnsley was Bearmodeslea in about 800 and a village of 24 people in Domesday Book. The Victoria County History records a park here by 1197, gone by 1542, and a church by 1151 that began as a chapel of Bibury. The village grew where the old London to Gloucester road, the Welsh Way, crossed the road from Cirencester to Oxford, and the street you see was largely made when that road was turnpiked and rerouted in 1753.

William Bourchier bought the manor in 1600. His descendant Brereton Bourchier built Barnsley House in 1697 and, after his marriage in 1700, began Barnsley Park; Henry Perrot, who married Bourchier's daughter Martha in 1719, enlarged the park house into the baroque building that stands, with rainwater heads of 1720 and 1721. The Perrots enclosed the parish in 1762 and the Musgraves, who inherited in 1812, built the dated estate cottages. Barnsley House served as the rectory from 1762 to 1932; Cecil and Linda Verey bought it in 1939, and it passed to their son David and his wife Rosemary in 1952. The garden she made there over the next 50 years is on the national register at Grade II*.

Questions about Barnsley

Can you visit the garden at Barnsley House?

Mostly as a guest of the hotel, THE PIG in the Cotswolds. Rosemary Verey's garden is listed Grade II* and is the hotel's own, so lunch, dinner or a night there is the usual way to see the laburnum walk and the potager, and the hotel says lunch guests are free to wander. Its Kitchen Garden tour is free and open to everyone every day at 11am; let the hotel know you are coming on 0345 225 9494. It publishes no separate garden-only visits, so ask before you travel for the formal gardens.

Is Barnsley worth visiting?

Yes, for a quiet lunch and an hour, rather than a day. It is an estate village of one street with a Norman church, a famous garden behind a hotel wall and a good pub with rooms, 3 miles from Bibury. Most people pass through; the ones who stop get it to themselves.

Is there a bus to Barnsley?

Yes. The 855 between Cirencester and Bibury stops at Barnsley House and by the Village Pub, roughly once an hour from Monday to Saturday, with no service on Sundays. From Cirencester it is about ten minutes, and the same bus goes on to Bibury and Northleach.

Where do you park in Barnsley?

There is no public car park. The Village Pub has a free car park behind it for people eating or staying, and the hotel has its own. Otherwise there is a little roadside space on the street, which is a through road, so park tight to the kerb and well away from the bend by the church.

Who was Rosemary Verey?

A garden designer and writer who made the garden at Barnsley House from 1952 until her death in May 2001, with her husband David Verey, the architectural historian. Her laburnum walk, knot garden and potager at Barnsley were widely copied, and the garden is on the national register of parks and gardens at Grade II*.

Getting to Barnsley

By bus
The 855 (Pulhams) between Cirencester, Bibury, Northleach and Bourton-on-the-Water stops at Barnsley House and the Village Pub, roughly hourly Monday to Saturday. No Sunday service.
By train
Kemble is the nearest station, about 9 miles. Take the 882 bus or a taxi into Cirencester for the 855.
By car
On the B4425 between Cirencester and Bibury. There is no public car park; the Village Pub's car park is for its customers.

Access

A single village street. The Village Pub says its bedrooms, in the eaves, have no disabled access, and its car park is gravel

Distances from Barnsley
Bibury3.1 mi
Cirencester4.3 mi
Kemble station9.3 mi
Fairford10.6 mi
Northleach12.4 mi
Cheltenham18.6 mi

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