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The stone weavers' cottages of Arlington Row lining a lane that climbs through Bibury

Mike Peel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Bibury and Ablington

A 5-mile (8.2km) circular walk from Arlington Row in Bibury, an hour and a half to two hours of moderate walking with a few stiles. It goes up Packhorse Lane and the Salt Way over open wold, down to Ablington and its Elizabethan manor, and back beside the River Coln.

Distance
8.2 km (5.1 mi)
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1 hr, 45 mins
Ascent
107 m
Circular
Circular

The route

Starts at Arlington Row and Rack Isle, Bibury Muddy in winterStilesLivestock in fields Download GPX

Map of Bibury and Ablington: the route drawn around its start
© OpenStreetMap contributors

Elevation Highest 158 m, lowest 103 m, climb about 107 m

Step by step

  1. A narrow lane between a stone wall and a hedge leading out of a village

    Step 1: Out of Bibury by Packhorse Lane

    From Arlington Row, cross by Rack Isle and walk through the village by Church Road. Turn up Packhorse Lane, a public bridleway, and follow it north out of the village as a farm track.

  2. A wooden field gate between drystone piers, a yellow rape field beyond

    Step 2: North to the Salt Way

    The bridleway runs north across the fields past Hale Barn to meet the Salt Way, a restricted byway. Turn north along it over open, exposed farmland; walkers report mud in wet weather.

    • Muddy in winter
  3. A wide farm track across open wold under a big cloudy sky

    Step 3: West to Ablington

    Where the byways meet, turn south-west on the restricted byway past Gore Hill Covert, a long straight track across the fields. It meets a lane; follow the lane south-west down into Ablington.

    • Muddy in winter
  4. A wide shallow river under overhanging trees on a sunny day

    Step 4: Through Ablington to the Coln

    Walk through the hamlet past its old cottages by the river. At the west end, take the public footpath south-east, which follows the valley of the River Coln back towards Arlington. Walkers report cattle and sheep in the fields.

    • Dogs on lead
  5. Stone cottages with tall chimneys seen end-on along a narrow path

    Step 5: Arlington and back to the Row

    The footpath comes into Arlington by the Baptist chapel. Follow the footpaths on past Green Bank, down to Arlington Row and the start.

Sights on the way

The sights this walk passes, numbered as on the map.

The walk in detail

The Bibury and Ablington walk is a 5-mile (8.2km) circular route from Arlington Row in Bibury, over the wold to the hamlet of Ablington and back along the River Coln. It is moderate, with 107m of climbing and a few stiles, and takes up to two hours, with the Catherine Wheel pub in Arlington near the end.

Packhorse Lane and the Salt Way

The first half of the walk is long, straight byways across open fields, with little shelter. The route leaves Bibury by Packhorse Lane, now a bridleway, and joins the Salt Way, which OpenStreetMap names along the restricted byway north of the village. Up here the land is open arable, and walkers describe it as exposed to the weather, with no shade.

Ablington

Ablington is a hamlet of Bibury parish on the Coln, and its manor of 1590 is the reason to come this way. Ablington Manor, listed Grade I, was built for John Coxwell. Its porch is the thing to see: over the arch are five carved heads, which the listing identifies as Queen Elizabeth with Mary and Henry VIII beside her, and Philip of Spain and James I at the ends, and above them Coxwell's inscription asking the Lord to plead his cause, with the year. Ablington House nearby is a mid seventeenth-century house with two gables and ball finials, and the two-arched bridge over the Coln west of the manor, early nineteenth century, carries its drive.

A low stone bridge over a shallow clear river, ferns on the bank
The bridge over the Coln at Ablington Photo: Michael Dibb, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Down the Coln to Arlington

The second half follows the river. From Ablington the footpath follows the Coln valley back to Arlington, also in Bibury parish, coming in by the Baptist chapel. Arlington Row at the end of the walk is a Grade I terrace built in the late fourteenth century as a wool store and turned into weavers' cottages in the late seventeenth, now owned by the National Trust and lived in.

The Royal Society of Arts repaired the Row in 1929 and the National Trust restored it in the early 1970s; two of the cottages are Trust holiday lets, the rest private homes, so there is no access to them or their gardens. Opposite is Rack Isle, the Trust's water meadow, with a level path in front of the Row and round the meadow that narrows in places and crosses the mill stream on a small bridge. Dogs go on leads there.

What walkers report

Reviews of this one are mixed, and most of the complaints are about the first 3 miles. Several walkers found that half samey, open to the weather and mostly through crop fields, and the paths are boggy after rain, with heavy mud reported in the winters and early springs of 2025 and 2026. There are cattle and sheep in the fields, so dogs go on a lead, and walkers report a few stone stiles that are awkward with a dog: one counted two with dog gates and two by a farm where a dog has to be lifted over. Carry the map. Our guide to the Cotswolds with a dog has general advice on livestock.

Food, parking and the bus

There is nothing to eat on the way, so plan to eat at the end. The Catherine Wheel on the main road in Arlington, an early seventeenth-century house that is now a pub, is close to the end of the walk (ring 01285 740250 to check food times); back in Bibury there is the Swan by the bridge or Bibury Trout Farm, which has a café. Parking in Bibury is the problem: there is no council car park, and walkers report limited free roadside spaces. The public toilets are on The Street (50p). The 855 bus runs from Cirencester and Bourton, Monday to Saturday, as our guide to the Cotswolds without a car explains.

Other walks from Bibury

Bibury has two shorter loops south of the village and a longer one down the valley. Bibury, Oxhill Wood and Akeman Street and the National Landscape's Bibury and the River Coln cover the other side of the valley, and the loop from Coln St Aldwyns follows the Coln down to the next village. Our guide to the Coln valley covers the villages downstream.

Places on the way

Stay near the start

Inns, cottages and hotels within a short drive of where the walk begins, so you can set off early.

Where to stay in Bibury

Questions about Bibury and Ablington

How long is the Bibury and Ablington walk?

The Bibury and Ablington walk is 5 miles (8.2km) with about 107m of climbing, and takes an hour and a half to two hours.

Where does the Bibury and Ablington walk start, and where do you park?

The Bibury and Ablington walk starts by Arlington Row and Rack Isle in Bibury. Bibury has no council car park; walkers report limited free roadside parking, and the 855 bus from Cirencester or Bourton stops in the village, Monday to Saturday.

Are there stiles on the Bibury and Ablington walk?

Yes. Walkers report a few stone stiles on the Bibury and Ablington walk, and one counted two by a farm with no dog gate.

Is the Bibury and Ablington walk good for dogs?

With care. There are cattle and sheep in the fields on the Bibury and Ablington walk, so dogs go on a lead, and walkers report stone stiles that are awkward with a dog; one counted two where a dog has to be lifted over. Dogs go on leads at Arlington Row too.

Is there a pub or café on the Bibury and Ablington walk?

Not on the way, only at the end. The Catherine Wheel pub in Arlington is close to the end of the walk, and the Swan and the Trout Farm café are in Bibury.

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