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Stone cottages beside a small stream with a stone-edged bank and green verges

Bill Boaden, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

South Cerney

A large village on the River Churn south of Cirencester, with a Norman church that once hid a twelfth-century crucifix, the infilled locks of the Thames and Severn Canal and the Cotswold Lakes at the end of the street.

Nearest station
Kemble, about 4 miles by road, then a taxi; Stagecoach's 51 bus links the village with Cirencester and Swindon
Parking
The Cotswold Lakes Trust's Lakeside car park on Station Road, at the east end of the village: cashless, from £1.20 (2026)
Best time
Winter for the birds on the lakes; any season for the church
When it's busy
Summer weekends at ROX and the lakeside car parks on the Spine Road; the old village by the church and the Churn stays quiet
Dogs
On a lead at the Trust's car parks and lakeside sites, as the Trust asks

About South Cerney

South Cerney is a large village on the River Churn about 4 miles south of Cirencester, where the Cotswolds flatten into the gravel country of the upper Thames. The old village of stone houses gathers round All Hallows church and the river, and past its streets the land turns to water: the Cotswold Water Park, now called the Cotswold Lakes, begins at the end of Station Road.

What to see

All Hallows is the reason to stop, a Norman church listed Grade I. Its finest piece of carving is the doorway now inside the south porch, decorated with beakheads and chevrons, which J. P. St Aubyn moved there when he restored the church in 1862. The central tower keeps its Norman lancets in the lowest stage, the five-bay nave arcade is Early English, and the chancel, with its double piscina and sedilia, is fourteenth century.

The church's treasure is not here at all. In 1912 builders found a carved wooden head and foot from a figure of Christ crucified, hidden in a chamber in the nave wall beside the tower arch. The British Museum bought them from the parish in 1994 and dates the head to about 1130, and replicas are shown in the church; the South Cerney Trust says they are generally acknowledged as the earliest of their kind found in Britain. A search of the chamber between 2012 and 2016 found a fragment of lime wood that radiocarbon dating placed between 1039 and 1210, the same period as the carvings, and the Trust hopes to look further when it can raise the money.

The other remains are the canal's. The Thames and Severn Canal came through on its way to the Thames in 1789, and South Cerney had a flight of three locks and a wharf. All three locks are filled in; at the Upper Lock the old lock-keeper's house is a private home. Downstream at Cerney Wick, just over the Wiltshire border, the Round House and Lock of 1790 is listed Grade II, a three-storey round watchman's cottage that is also a private house, seen from the lane.

A church with a squat central tower behind a red-leaved tree and churchyard cross
All Hallows church, South Cerney Photo: Bill Boaden, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A morning in South Cerney

Park at the Trust's Lakeside car park on Station Road and walk west into the old village. Go first to All Hallows for the doorway and the replica crucifix, then wander the lanes by the Churn. Walk back out along Station Road to the lakes, where the car park has picnic places by the water and the Trust asks you not to feed the birds. If you have the rest of the day, ROX is on the Spine Road a few minutes' drive south, with paddleboarding, kayaking and open-water swims by booking, a lakeside café and, its own site says, ample free parking.

A quiet river under arching willows and lush green banks
The Churn at South Cerney Photo: Bill Boaden, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Walks

The flat land round the village is laced with paths, and the Cotswold Lakes Trust's free Leisure Map, from the Cotswold Lakes Visitor Centre on the Spine Road or as a download from the Trust's site, shows more than 100km of them. The best is the Old Railway Line, which runs from the Trust's Bridge car park south of the village for about 6km to Cricklade on the trackbed of the Midland and South Western Junction Railway, a popular cycle route towards Cricklade. Stretches of the old canal line run north-west towards Siddington and Cirencester; check on an Ordnance Survey map which stretches are public paths before you set out. We have not yet written up a walk of our own from the village.

A disused stone-lined canal lock chamber in rough grass under a winter sky
Boxwell Spring Lock on the old canal Photo: Vieve Forward, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Food and drink

The village has pubs round the old centre, among them the Eliot Arms on Clarks Hay, which Arkell's Brewery bought and refurbished in 2022 and which has rooms. It is open from noon, to 11pm Monday to Thursday, 10pm on Friday and Saturday and 8pm on Sunday, with lunch until 2.30pm Monday to Saturday and until 5.30pm on Sunday, and dinner until 8.30pm Monday to Saturday. We could not confirm current opening or food times for the other pubs, so check before you go hungry. The Lodge at ROX, by the lake on the Spine Road, is a lakeside café that has brought back Sunday roasts, and Cirencester, 10 minutes' drive north, has the widest choice; see Cirencester's guide for the restaurants we have checked.

When to come

South Cerney has no season of its own; the lakes give it one. Winter brings thousands of waterbirds to the lakes south of the village, and summer brings the paddleboards and swimmers to ROX and to Cleveland Lakes near Ashton Keynes, both by booking. In mid-July, in the years it is held, the Royal International Air Tattoo at RAF Fairford runs a free park and ride from South Cerney, and the roads are busy for the weekend.

Last verified 1 November 2026 by our editors

  • A village street of stone cottages with a red stall and parked cars
  • A long low stone shop building on a village street corner
  • A reedy old canal under bare trees with low sun on the bank
  • A clear river beside a grassy path under overhanging trees
  • A tall stone cross on a stepped base stands on a grassy triangle at a road junction lined with stone houses

Things to do in South Cerney

Where to stay in South Cerney

Holiday cottages in and around South Cerney

Where to eat and drink in South Cerney

Walks in and around South Cerney

History of South Cerney

A church stood at South Cerney by the twelfth century: the lower stage of the tower and the doorway belong to it, and the British Museum dates the carved head found in 1912 to about 1130. Who hid the crucifix in the wall is not recorded; the South Cerney Trust says only that it was presumably hidden in a time of religious intolerance. The church was restored in 1862 by J. P. St Aubyn. The Thames and Severn Canal opened through the parish in 1789 with three locks at South Cerney, and the Round House at Cerney Wick was built for a watchman in 1790; the canal was abandoned in 1927. The Midland and South Western Junction Railway ran across the parish to Cricklade on the line that is now a cycle path. Gravel digging has since turned the fields south and east of the village into lakes.

Questions about South Cerney

What is there to do in South Cerney?

See All Hallows, a Grade I Norman church with a carved doorway and replicas of a crucifix of about 1130 found in its wall, then go to the lakes. ROX on the Spine Road has paddleboarding, kayaking and open-water swims by booking, and the Old Railway Line runs 6km to Cricklade for walking and cycling. Allow a morning for the village and a day with the lakes.

Where is the crucifix from South Cerney church?

In the British Museum. A carved wooden head and foot from a figure of Christ were found hidden in the wall of All Hallows in 1912, and the museum bought them from the parish in 1994; it dates the head to about 1130. Replicas are on show in the church, and the South Cerney Trust says the pieces are generally acknowledged as the earliest of their kind found in Britain.

Can you get to South Cerney by bus?

Yes. Stagecoach West's 51 between Swindon, Cirencester and Cheltenham stops in South Cerney and by the lakes, about hourly through the day on weekdays and every two hours on Sundays. From London, take the train to Kemble, about 4 miles away, and a taxi, or the train to Swindon and the 51. Check Stagecoach's timetable for Sundays before you travel.

Where do you park in South Cerney?

At the Cotswold Lakes Trust's Lakeside car park on Station Road, on the east edge of the village by the water. It is cashless, by contactless or the RingGo app, from £1.20 (2026), has disabled bays and a 2.1m height barrier, and Trust members park free.

Getting to South Cerney

By car
From Cirencester, south on the A419 and off at the South Cerney junction; the village is about 4 miles, 10 minutes. The Spine Road (B4696) runs south to the lakes.
Parking
The Cotswold Lakes Trust's Lakeside car park, Station Road, at the east end of the village: cashless, from £1.20 (2026), with disabled bays. Members park free.
By bus
Stagecoach West's 51 between Swindon, Cirencester and Cheltenham stops in the village and by the lakes, about hourly in the day on weekdays and every two hours on Sundays.
By train
Kemble, on the line from London Paddington, is about 4 miles away; take a taxi, as no bus links the station with the village.

Access

The village streets are level. The Trust's Lakeside car park on Station Road has disabled bays and picnic places by the water.

Distances from South Cerney
Cotswold Water Park2.5 mi
Ashton Keynes3.1 mi
Kemble4.3 mi
Cirencester4.3 mi
Cricklade6.2 mi
Swindon13 mi

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