St Kenelm's Church, Minster Lovell

St Kenelm's stands beside the ruins of Minster Lovell Hall on the River Windrush, in Old Minster Lovell, about 3 miles west of Witney in the Oxfordshire Cotswolds. It was rebuilt in the mid fifteenth century, probably by William, Lord Lovell, who built the hall. It is listed Grade I and open every day.

History

There was a church here in the twelfth century, and the base of the walls beside the chancel arch may belong to it. William, Lord Lovell, one of the richest men in England, built his great house by the river in the 1430s and rebuilt the church beside it in the Perpendicular style of the day. Historic England dates the church to the mid fifteenth century and says it was probably his work. The Oxfordshire Historic Churches Trust adds that Henry VI gave the church to Eton College, and that it belongs to the college still. The Victoria County History records that the right to appoint the vicar was granted to Eton with the old priory's other possessions in 1442.

The Lovells

William's grandson Francis served the Yorkist cause and was made Viscount Lovell by Richard III. After Bosworth in 1485 the hall passed to the Crown, and Francis disappeared after the battle of Stoke two years later. The hall passed in 1602 to the lawyer Sir Edward Coke, and in about 1747 most of it was pulled down for its stone. The church stayed in use as the parish church, and stands whole beside the ruin. The legends of Francis's end are in our story Three dooms at Minster Lovell Hall.

St Kenelm

The church's dedication is unusual. Kenelm is the boy prince of Mercian legend, venerated as a martyr at Winchcombe in Gloucestershire. A Church Near You counts St Kenelm's as one of seven churches dedicated to him along the pilgrim roads to Winchcombe.

What to see

The church is cross-shaped, with a central tower, a chancel of two bays, two transepts and a nave of three bays, and Perpendicular windows throughout. Stand under the tower first: the crossing is vaulted, with carved roses where the ribs meet.

The tomb is in the south transept, now the Lady Chapel. It is an alabaster tomb chest, probably to William, Lord Lovell, with the figure of a knight in armour lying on top, his feet on a lion and his head on a helmet. Round the sides, the traceried panels hold small figures and coats of arms recording the family's connections.

In the nave are fifteenth-century pews and an octagonal fifteenth-century font, finely carved. Fragments of medieval glass are gathered in several windows: look for St Dominic in a north nave window and St Lucy in a south window of the chancel. The reredos behind the altar, of 1876, is by J. L. Pearson, the architect of Truro Cathedral, with five carved panels of Bible scenes.

Visiting

St Kenelm's is open every day from morning until dusk, and entry is free. A Church Near You lists toilets, a hearing loop and a guidebook or notes for visitors, and English Heritage sells its guidebook to the hall in the church. The church's A Church Near You page gives Holy Communion at 9.30am on the first, third and fourth Sundays of the month; check the Witney parish website for current times. The ruins of the hall next door are looked after by English Heritage, free and open at any reasonable time in daylight, with dogs on leads welcome. Come late on a summer afternoon, when the low sun comes through the south windows and the meadow below is quiet.

Getting there

The church and the hall sit at the end of a narrow dead-end lane, where parking is not allowed. English Heritage points visitors to the small car park serving the church, if there is space. Otherwise park at the Wash Meadow car park by Minster Lovell Bridge (near OX29 0RN), checking it is open to visitors, and walk up the village street past the Old Swan, or across the meadow. On foot, Minster Lovell, Crawley and the Windrush, a 6km walk along the river, ends at the hall and the church.

Nearby

The ruined Minster Lovell Hall and its round fifteenth-century dovecote are beside the church, and the Old Swan and Minster Mill are a few minutes' walk away in the village. Up the River Windrush are the little churches of St Oswald's, Widford and St Mary's, Swinbrook; downstream, Witney has St Mary's and, at Cogges, another St Mary's.